Shailaza's Blog

Category: fashion designers

  • Natural Cost Cutting’s the Future

    In the post pandemic world, the internet has become the new place to be. Today, every one from the fashion world whether a hot shot designer or newbies who are just testing their wings can be found online. Shailaza Singh explores the fashion net!

    The net leveller of fashion

    Sunil Sethi opines that the online trend has been a game changer for many. “Earlier people from Delhi were used to making a trip to Delhi and checking out new trends in fashion in those markets. However, now people are used to buying from the comfort of their homes. So, naturally the retail market will suffer. The designers who have been investing in opening shops and stores, especially single operators who only work on flagship stores may not be able to continue with paying high rents on their store. So, some churning is bound to take place as far as the Indian fashion designers are concerned. International markets have opened up at a much faster pace than domestic, so those who are into export markets might get some reprieve because of the business coming from that end.”

    Pallavi Jaipur says, “The online world has helped in defining a new channel of buying and selling which is now here to stay. It has definitely increased the reach of the products.”

    Rajesh Pratap thinks that now there are a lot of people who are ordering expensive items online. “Earlier, people didn’t have the confidence to buy a suit or a lehenga online because they had to try it on and get the fitting done. However, now people are ordering even expensive clothes. Brands have made it so convenient that people will come to your house and you can try it out to see if fits. Returns are becoming easier. So, online buying is gaining more credibility. You know you can get the fitting done and return it if it does not work. So digital fashion, distance selling is a reality. This is what has changed already. And this is a case everywhere. Now people have realized the futility of renting out expensive places, paying their employees huge conveyance allowances. They have understood zoom meetings are faster, easier and cheaper. Likewise, even in high fashion, things will change with time. But what those changes are, we will get to know with time.”

    Raghavendra Rathore says that the migration of the fashion world to the online space has helped a lot of young blood to the market, which is bound to notch up the competition as a result of the pandemic. “You will see a lot of young designers suddenly muscling their way into the mainframe of Indian fashion because they now can create one product and don’t have to create a collection or have an army of tailors. Today, in the fashion business, you just need one prototype, a decent photographer and a decent website. So, whole migration to online is going to challenge the industry but at the same time provide opening for younger brands who didn’t have visibility or get into fashion week or capture the mindshare of the larger public except for partnering with Bollywood or other such biggies earlier. In a way, the field has become more level. Now the bigger brands will now be seen sitting next to a younger brand on a website. So, you don’t have to have big pockets to get into fashion.  There is blood bath ahead of us in terms of price point and quality (what you see, buy and eventually get).”

    However, he also feels there will be a churning of sorts when it comes to the fashion business selling its wares online. The consumers might also learn a few lessons. “On the flip side, the treachery of how people market and package their products will increase. There is bound to be a lot of instances of disappointment where an item costing 2500 rupees may not really look like a 2500 rupees item. We are not used to looking at products at that price point. Earlier people were used to buying 15000 rupees worth of product after they could touch and feel it. Now when people will buy a similar looking item for a lesser amount online. When they receive it and touch it, they may say, ‘Oh my God, this is polyester!’  There is going to be a great setback or mismatch in terms of expectations which will again course correct in a few months and people will arrive at somewhat a midpoint. All that is going to be a huge challenge because people would want to buy more for the same amount of money rather than quality because right now because there is hardly any opportunity to showcase the quality products considering the current paying ability of most people.”

    It is indeed true that most people of the fashion world have been forced to move online due to the pandemic. In fact, the American fashion retailer Gap has closed all 81 stores in UK and Ireland to move to the online space.

    Accessorize this!

    Speaking of fashion, where do the accessories feature in this post pandemic world? Have they been dropped like hot cakes or are they still hot?

    Sunil Sethi believes that people will be more devoted to practicality rather than fashion. “People now realize that there are some day-to-day things that they would need all the time. So, carrying sanitizers, extra masks, gloves are going to be a norm. Most men too will look for some sort of a man bag which will help them to carry all these things along with their gadgets like iPads with them where ever they go.”

    So, what about footwear? He says, “These days women are out of practice with their heels. So, obviously, dress shoes and heels are less in demand. Hence, office wear will include more flats than heels. These days, I see more and more people going in for sneakers or breathable shoes. People no longer look down on what is called activewear in footwear. As a matter of fact, this kind of getting more prominence and acceptance.”

    Raghavendra Rathore believes that there will be a lot of accessories when it is about handmade or sustainable products as a result of lesser number of artisans available for work. “Most people will focus on creating a lot of handmade accessories like earrings or masks.”

    Neeta Mohapatra agrees. “These days more and more people are purchasing accessories from small firms and NGOs, which is a good trend to have emerged during the pandemic.”

    Swati Vijaivargie says believes matching masks are the new accessories while shoes and bags are passe. “People are looking at matching masks and scarves.” Ashima Parnami disagrees, “I cannot sacrifice fashion for safety. Fashion or no fashion, I prefer wearing my N95.”

    Loyal Core

    Earlier, the fashion aficionados swore by their favourite brands. Saying something about their beloved brands or designers had the potential to spark a passionate debate or even a full fledged war. Has the new world order impacted the brand loyalty?

    Raghavendra Rathore feels that brand loyalty may vanish temporarily especially in the ongoing pandemic. “The consumer on the other side is becoming more discerning and the loyalties they had to brands are going to dissipate at least for the next few months or maybe for a year. Until it is gifting or impressing somebody, having a brand of prestige is going to take second priority. So, if the inflow of salary is stagnant, logically people are going to move to brands which are suddenly popping up and are equally producing qualitative products. So, as far as the consumer is concerned, loyalty will disappear, though the consumer will go and soak in the trends in the brands but they will buy replication elsewhere.” However, he believes that this might be a phenomenon reserved only for products with a short shelf life and will probably inspire new changes too. “The products that have a life cycle of more than two seasons or year and a half, I don’t think there is going to much erosion from their story boards and they will probably have customer loyalty because it is a long-term investment. People will start spending less on what is perishable or will wash away or tear in six months, because they want to wear something in the personal space and maybe save the big purchase for a later time. Many companies have probably understood this trend. For example, iPhone has launched new and less expensive versions of their products. Although the process would have started some years ago but this becomes an opportunity for them to launch six models which are comparatively low priced. You will see this happening across all industries. People have already been working on this front and what can be remoulded has been remoulded and has already been launched or will be launched in the coming months.”

    -Concluded

    This article by Shailaza Singh appeared in Rashtradoot Newspaper’s Arbit Section on 16 July 2021

  • A Sea Change in ‘Attitude’

    If there is one thing that has really undergone a big change in this pandemic – it is the style and perhaps even the size of the weddings. From a time where people used to invite almost ‘every Tom, Dick and Harry’ to showcase the achievement of their lifetime, weddings have now become an intimate, family-only affairs with classy dresses. Shailaza Singh delves into this aspect of pandemic fashion with some interesting results.


    Intimate weddings- More Classy than Massy!


    “India has always been a land of occasions, weddings and festivities,” says Pallavi Jaipur. “Weddings have now become more intimate and classier. Now the brides and grooms are investing in clothes which are classy and timeless and can be reused in multiple ways rather than just the trend of the current season.”


    Sunil Sethi says that he has observed a new trend that has emerged in this pandemic. “The budgets may have gone down for the ready-to-wear segment, when it comes to couture, people are looking for even finer clothing. In the first phase of the pandemic, the budgets went down. For example, someone who could afford a lehenga worth five lakh rupees originally was happy in something which was about half the price because the weddings were more intimate and the rest of the people (except for the bride who I agree had to be dressed in her Sunday best) weren’t spending much even if they were one of the fifty invited for the wedding. However, the bride, bridegroom and their parents continue to buy the finest clothes from the Indian designers. No wedding is complete without some body buying designer wear for the ceremonies. Interestingly, these days, people in the high-net-worth category have upped their budget, which means that they are going for finer pieces as they have plenty of time to plan. Most weddings have now been postponed for a longer period which is going to be probably November or January. Naturally so they are being pickier. FDCI will also be doing a couture week in August so that people can pick and choose from the new collections.”


    Raghavendra Rathore, believes that now weddings are becoming a classier and more elegant affair with the designer wear following suit. “Till the time we really get out of this pandemic created mess, weddings I believe will be more intimate and elegant. Naturally, the buyers will gravitate towards more personalized, classic and sophisticated designs which will allow them to recycle their wedding outfits for other occasions in the days to come.”


    Rajesh Pratap believes that there are two kinds of consumers. “Some people have learnt from the past and are now organizing quieter weddings and keeping a low profile. However, there are those who have not learnt their lessons and are still splurging and hosting crazy weddings. In a way, this is all a bipolar reaction from the consumers.”


    Twirling Sarees
    Interestingly, saree seems to have become the ultimate ‘rediscovery of the pandemic’. Many people have gone treasure hunting in their own wardrobes to return with long forgotten sarees and tons of creativity. Neeta Mohapatra explains, “the evolution of the saree is what I call creativity at its best. People are now wearing it as Roman robes at home while some are making comfy skirts out of it!”
    Ashima Parnami seconds the thought. “Saree has always been in vogue regardless of the times. The very versatility of saree, especially the chiffons and cottons has made people experiment with it amidst this pandemic!”

    Deep Wardrobe Diving
    Speaking of recycling, the other day, I was having a video chat with my friend Smitha who is somewhat of a fashionista and lives in Mumbai. She was wearing a white kurta with a scarf and the whole effect was quite classy. I complimented her on her style and asked her if this was a new addition to her wardrobe. She smiled and said, “This kurta is quite old. When I was looking at sorting out my clothes this pandemic, I discovered a lot of pieces that I can really wear well with accessories.”


    Neeta Mohapatra believes that recycling has become the new trend in vogue where people can not only look good in their old clothes but save money! “Recycling of old clothes is a big trend. For example, styling a plus size kurta with a belt and shoes can actually be a statement because it can be made to look like a shirt dress or a kaftan.”
    Sunil Sethi agrees. “People have rediscovered their wardrobe as in they have so many clothes that they haven’t worn for a number of years. They have been able to reassess their wardrobe, understand the new things that they need to buy if at all or have enough in their own wardrobe that they should be wearing. People are only buying what is absolutely necessary for them.”


    Rohit Kamra has also observed the change when it comes to people shopping for new clothes. “There has been a paradigm shift in the buying patterns. People have now developed a sudden interest in their wardrobes. Come to think of it, most of us have decent wardrobes. We mostly buy not because we need the clothes but because the buying feeds our psyche in a way. Nevertheless, we have seen cases of revenge buying, especially in countries like Europe and America where the pandemic no longer seems to be a threat as a result of the mass vaccinations.”


    Revenge Rages


    Neeta Mohapatra is of the opinion that there are different categories of people when it comes to shopping for new clothes. “Some people are shopping online, left right and centre even during the pandemic. In fact, the online purchasing has grown by 51% since the last year especially in India according to an Economic Times report. Women are hoarding jewellery and clothes. Now people want to live for today since no one knows what is going to happen tomorrow. Even I have been shopping to my heart’s content. I have a baby girl and I love shopping for her too. Some people don’t shop because they say they have nowhere to go and hence no need to shop for anything fancy.”


    Rajesh Pratap says that the phenomenon needs to be observed for some time before we can actually term it as revenge buying. “There are people buying clothes and accessories. However, I can’t say whether this revenge buying is here to stay or not. We would need to wait and observe before we can think about judging these trends. Accessories have taken a big hit because there are no lunches or cocktails to go to so why would you buy that crazy bag? However, will you not buy it ever in your life? I can’t say! Gifting is still happening but not that much.”


    Ashima Parnami can hardly wait to shop offline! “I have been dying to shop and have visited many stores as the lockdown has been lifted. For me, I am not a very online person when it comes to clothes. I need to touch and feel the fabric before I can think about buying it. I can buy bags online but clothes are definitely best bought offline!”


    Sunil Sethi feels otherwise. “These days, there is a lot of talk about revenge buying. Many people have been saying that those who have lacked a certain thing now have no qualms about purchasing it whether it is cosmetics or affordable products or entertainment. Personally, I don’t believe in this revenge buying phenomenon because I feel that as a result of the pandemic, now most people have been able to gain an understanding about what they have and what they need. Now, I don’t think we will see the trend of shop till you drop anytime soon. I guess we will see revenge buying in people buying the best insurance policies or the most profitable returns in investments or new ventures in the equity market. The revenge buying may happen in people planning a second home somewhere in a place where life will be safer for them if an event like this ever happens again. That is where I see a lot of money going. People will be happy to get rid of acquisitions, assets, properties that they no longer need in their lives and concentrate on the present.

    This article was published in Rashtradoot’s Arbit section on 15 July 2021.