Shailaza's Blog

Category: Rohit Kamra

  • Natural Cost Cutting’s the Future

    In the post pandemic world, the internet has become the new place to be. Today, every one from the fashion world whether a hot shot designer or newbies who are just testing their wings can be found online. Shailaza Singh explores the fashion net!

    The net leveller of fashion

    Sunil Sethi opines that the online trend has been a game changer for many. “Earlier people from Delhi were used to making a trip to Delhi and checking out new trends in fashion in those markets. However, now people are used to buying from the comfort of their homes. So, naturally the retail market will suffer. The designers who have been investing in opening shops and stores, especially single operators who only work on flagship stores may not be able to continue with paying high rents on their store. So, some churning is bound to take place as far as the Indian fashion designers are concerned. International markets have opened up at a much faster pace than domestic, so those who are into export markets might get some reprieve because of the business coming from that end.”

    Pallavi Jaipur says, “The online world has helped in defining a new channel of buying and selling which is now here to stay. It has definitely increased the reach of the products.”

    Rajesh Pratap thinks that now there are a lot of people who are ordering expensive items online. “Earlier, people didn’t have the confidence to buy a suit or a lehenga online because they had to try it on and get the fitting done. However, now people are ordering even expensive clothes. Brands have made it so convenient that people will come to your house and you can try it out to see if fits. Returns are becoming easier. So, online buying is gaining more credibility. You know you can get the fitting done and return it if it does not work. So digital fashion, distance selling is a reality. This is what has changed already. And this is a case everywhere. Now people have realized the futility of renting out expensive places, paying their employees huge conveyance allowances. They have understood zoom meetings are faster, easier and cheaper. Likewise, even in high fashion, things will change with time. But what those changes are, we will get to know with time.”

    Raghavendra Rathore says that the migration of the fashion world to the online space has helped a lot of young blood to the market, which is bound to notch up the competition as a result of the pandemic. “You will see a lot of young designers suddenly muscling their way into the mainframe of Indian fashion because they now can create one product and don’t have to create a collection or have an army of tailors. Today, in the fashion business, you just need one prototype, a decent photographer and a decent website. So, whole migration to online is going to challenge the industry but at the same time provide opening for younger brands who didn’t have visibility or get into fashion week or capture the mindshare of the larger public except for partnering with Bollywood or other such biggies earlier. In a way, the field has become more level. Now the bigger brands will now be seen sitting next to a younger brand on a website. So, you don’t have to have big pockets to get into fashion.  There is blood bath ahead of us in terms of price point and quality (what you see, buy and eventually get).”

    However, he also feels there will be a churning of sorts when it comes to the fashion business selling its wares online. The consumers might also learn a few lessons. “On the flip side, the treachery of how people market and package their products will increase. There is bound to be a lot of instances of disappointment where an item costing 2500 rupees may not really look like a 2500 rupees item. We are not used to looking at products at that price point. Earlier people were used to buying 15000 rupees worth of product after they could touch and feel it. Now when people will buy a similar looking item for a lesser amount online. When they receive it and touch it, they may say, ‘Oh my God, this is polyester!’  There is going to be a great setback or mismatch in terms of expectations which will again course correct in a few months and people will arrive at somewhat a midpoint. All that is going to be a huge challenge because people would want to buy more for the same amount of money rather than quality because right now because there is hardly any opportunity to showcase the quality products considering the current paying ability of most people.”

    It is indeed true that most people of the fashion world have been forced to move online due to the pandemic. In fact, the American fashion retailer Gap has closed all 81 stores in UK and Ireland to move to the online space.

    Accessorize this!

    Speaking of fashion, where do the accessories feature in this post pandemic world? Have they been dropped like hot cakes or are they still hot?

    Sunil Sethi believes that people will be more devoted to practicality rather than fashion. “People now realize that there are some day-to-day things that they would need all the time. So, carrying sanitizers, extra masks, gloves are going to be a norm. Most men too will look for some sort of a man bag which will help them to carry all these things along with their gadgets like iPads with them where ever they go.”

    So, what about footwear? He says, “These days women are out of practice with their heels. So, obviously, dress shoes and heels are less in demand. Hence, office wear will include more flats than heels. These days, I see more and more people going in for sneakers or breathable shoes. People no longer look down on what is called activewear in footwear. As a matter of fact, this kind of getting more prominence and acceptance.”

    Raghavendra Rathore believes that there will be a lot of accessories when it is about handmade or sustainable products as a result of lesser number of artisans available for work. “Most people will focus on creating a lot of handmade accessories like earrings or masks.”

    Neeta Mohapatra agrees. “These days more and more people are purchasing accessories from small firms and NGOs, which is a good trend to have emerged during the pandemic.”

    Swati Vijaivargie says believes matching masks are the new accessories while shoes and bags are passe. “People are looking at matching masks and scarves.” Ashima Parnami disagrees, “I cannot sacrifice fashion for safety. Fashion or no fashion, I prefer wearing my N95.”

    Loyal Core

    Earlier, the fashion aficionados swore by their favourite brands. Saying something about their beloved brands or designers had the potential to spark a passionate debate or even a full fledged war. Has the new world order impacted the brand loyalty?

    Raghavendra Rathore feels that brand loyalty may vanish temporarily especially in the ongoing pandemic. “The consumer on the other side is becoming more discerning and the loyalties they had to brands are going to dissipate at least for the next few months or maybe for a year. Until it is gifting or impressing somebody, having a brand of prestige is going to take second priority. So, if the inflow of salary is stagnant, logically people are going to move to brands which are suddenly popping up and are equally producing qualitative products. So, as far as the consumer is concerned, loyalty will disappear, though the consumer will go and soak in the trends in the brands but they will buy replication elsewhere.” However, he believes that this might be a phenomenon reserved only for products with a short shelf life and will probably inspire new changes too. “The products that have a life cycle of more than two seasons or year and a half, I don’t think there is going to much erosion from their story boards and they will probably have customer loyalty because it is a long-term investment. People will start spending less on what is perishable or will wash away or tear in six months, because they want to wear something in the personal space and maybe save the big purchase for a later time. Many companies have probably understood this trend. For example, iPhone has launched new and less expensive versions of their products. Although the process would have started some years ago but this becomes an opportunity for them to launch six models which are comparatively low priced. You will see this happening across all industries. People have already been working on this front and what can be remoulded has been remoulded and has already been launched or will be launched in the coming months.”

    -Concluded

    This article by Shailaza Singh appeared in Rashtradoot Newspaper’s Arbit Section on 16 July 2021

  • A Sea Change in ‘Attitude’

    If there is one thing that has really undergone a big change in this pandemic – it is the style and perhaps even the size of the weddings. From a time where people used to invite almost ‘every Tom, Dick and Harry’ to showcase the achievement of their lifetime, weddings have now become an intimate, family-only affairs with classy dresses. Shailaza Singh delves into this aspect of pandemic fashion with some interesting results.


    Intimate weddings- More Classy than Massy!


    “India has always been a land of occasions, weddings and festivities,” says Pallavi Jaipur. “Weddings have now become more intimate and classier. Now the brides and grooms are investing in clothes which are classy and timeless and can be reused in multiple ways rather than just the trend of the current season.”


    Sunil Sethi says that he has observed a new trend that has emerged in this pandemic. “The budgets may have gone down for the ready-to-wear segment, when it comes to couture, people are looking for even finer clothing. In the first phase of the pandemic, the budgets went down. For example, someone who could afford a lehenga worth five lakh rupees originally was happy in something which was about half the price because the weddings were more intimate and the rest of the people (except for the bride who I agree had to be dressed in her Sunday best) weren’t spending much even if they were one of the fifty invited for the wedding. However, the bride, bridegroom and their parents continue to buy the finest clothes from the Indian designers. No wedding is complete without some body buying designer wear for the ceremonies. Interestingly, these days, people in the high-net-worth category have upped their budget, which means that they are going for finer pieces as they have plenty of time to plan. Most weddings have now been postponed for a longer period which is going to be probably November or January. Naturally so they are being pickier. FDCI will also be doing a couture week in August so that people can pick and choose from the new collections.”


    Raghavendra Rathore, believes that now weddings are becoming a classier and more elegant affair with the designer wear following suit. “Till the time we really get out of this pandemic created mess, weddings I believe will be more intimate and elegant. Naturally, the buyers will gravitate towards more personalized, classic and sophisticated designs which will allow them to recycle their wedding outfits for other occasions in the days to come.”


    Rajesh Pratap believes that there are two kinds of consumers. “Some people have learnt from the past and are now organizing quieter weddings and keeping a low profile. However, there are those who have not learnt their lessons and are still splurging and hosting crazy weddings. In a way, this is all a bipolar reaction from the consumers.”


    Twirling Sarees
    Interestingly, saree seems to have become the ultimate ‘rediscovery of the pandemic’. Many people have gone treasure hunting in their own wardrobes to return with long forgotten sarees and tons of creativity. Neeta Mohapatra explains, “the evolution of the saree is what I call creativity at its best. People are now wearing it as Roman robes at home while some are making comfy skirts out of it!”
    Ashima Parnami seconds the thought. “Saree has always been in vogue regardless of the times. The very versatility of saree, especially the chiffons and cottons has made people experiment with it amidst this pandemic!”

    Deep Wardrobe Diving
    Speaking of recycling, the other day, I was having a video chat with my friend Smitha who is somewhat of a fashionista and lives in Mumbai. She was wearing a white kurta with a scarf and the whole effect was quite classy. I complimented her on her style and asked her if this was a new addition to her wardrobe. She smiled and said, “This kurta is quite old. When I was looking at sorting out my clothes this pandemic, I discovered a lot of pieces that I can really wear well with accessories.”


    Neeta Mohapatra believes that recycling has become the new trend in vogue where people can not only look good in their old clothes but save money! “Recycling of old clothes is a big trend. For example, styling a plus size kurta with a belt and shoes can actually be a statement because it can be made to look like a shirt dress or a kaftan.”
    Sunil Sethi agrees. “People have rediscovered their wardrobe as in they have so many clothes that they haven’t worn for a number of years. They have been able to reassess their wardrobe, understand the new things that they need to buy if at all or have enough in their own wardrobe that they should be wearing. People are only buying what is absolutely necessary for them.”


    Rohit Kamra has also observed the change when it comes to people shopping for new clothes. “There has been a paradigm shift in the buying patterns. People have now developed a sudden interest in their wardrobes. Come to think of it, most of us have decent wardrobes. We mostly buy not because we need the clothes but because the buying feeds our psyche in a way. Nevertheless, we have seen cases of revenge buying, especially in countries like Europe and America where the pandemic no longer seems to be a threat as a result of the mass vaccinations.”


    Revenge Rages


    Neeta Mohapatra is of the opinion that there are different categories of people when it comes to shopping for new clothes. “Some people are shopping online, left right and centre even during the pandemic. In fact, the online purchasing has grown by 51% since the last year especially in India according to an Economic Times report. Women are hoarding jewellery and clothes. Now people want to live for today since no one knows what is going to happen tomorrow. Even I have been shopping to my heart’s content. I have a baby girl and I love shopping for her too. Some people don’t shop because they say they have nowhere to go and hence no need to shop for anything fancy.”


    Rajesh Pratap says that the phenomenon needs to be observed for some time before we can actually term it as revenge buying. “There are people buying clothes and accessories. However, I can’t say whether this revenge buying is here to stay or not. We would need to wait and observe before we can think about judging these trends. Accessories have taken a big hit because there are no lunches or cocktails to go to so why would you buy that crazy bag? However, will you not buy it ever in your life? I can’t say! Gifting is still happening but not that much.”


    Ashima Parnami can hardly wait to shop offline! “I have been dying to shop and have visited many stores as the lockdown has been lifted. For me, I am not a very online person when it comes to clothes. I need to touch and feel the fabric before I can think about buying it. I can buy bags online but clothes are definitely best bought offline!”


    Sunil Sethi feels otherwise. “These days, there is a lot of talk about revenge buying. Many people have been saying that those who have lacked a certain thing now have no qualms about purchasing it whether it is cosmetics or affordable products or entertainment. Personally, I don’t believe in this revenge buying phenomenon because I feel that as a result of the pandemic, now most people have been able to gain an understanding about what they have and what they need. Now, I don’t think we will see the trend of shop till you drop anytime soon. I guess we will see revenge buying in people buying the best insurance policies or the most profitable returns in investments or new ventures in the equity market. The revenge buying may happen in people planning a second home somewhere in a place where life will be safer for them if an event like this ever happens again. That is where I see a lot of money going. People will be happy to get rid of acquisitions, assets, properties that they no longer need in their lives and concentrate on the present.

    This article was published in Rashtradoot’s Arbit section on 15 July 2021.

  • The Pandemic Wears Fashion- I

     There was a time when being caught in their night clothes was a fashion fan’s worst nightmare. Today, with comfort as the uncrowned king of the fashion world, the story has been completely rewritten in the post pandemic world. Shailaza Singh explores the new trends.

    For the last two years, that she has been home, my teenaged daughter has been quite diligent about attending her school online. Every morning, she takes a bath, gets dressed and sits down for her classes. During the class, she has no qualms about getting up to get another book or something else required in that session! I have been wondering about this catastrophic change because as far as I can remember when she used to go to school, it took a lot of cajoling and sometimes even yelling to wake her up. She would then get up with a scowl that rivalled a grizzly bear! It was only after she sat in her bus and waved me a goodbye, I would heave a sigh of relief. When I delved into the matter, I realized that my daughter has been happily attending the online school not because the teachers had metamorphosized into angels overnight or she had become as intelligent as Einstein! It was simply because instead of her school uniform, she could don her choicest outfit, wear a matching lip balm and matching nail polish every day with the teacher having no idea about the little fashionista!

    While the lockdown may have liberated my daughter and her friends from their dreaded uniforms and transformed them into some divas of sorts, I have been experiencing a different reality. My jeans, trousers and all those pieces that have legs have been craving to get out of that dark closet. Every time I open my almirah, I hear their groans and pleas and prefer to don a t-shirt and pyjama. After countless arguments with my daughter who believes in dressing for style rather than comfort,  I decided reach out to the who’s who of the fashion world to know if style really matters in the post pandemic world!

    Comfortably Yours

    Sunil Sethi is perhaps one of the most respected names in the fashion world today. He is also the chairman of FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India), the organization with 400 plus fashion designers which is also the main organizer of the annual India Fashion Week. When I asked him about his views on the post pandemic fashion, all he talked about was comfort!

    “Of course, the emphasis is now on comfort,” he said. “People are no longer interested in looking good but feeling miserable inside in a tight-fitting dress. If there is one thing that the pandemic has taught everybody is the importance of life and being themselves.”

    Now, my curiosity was piqued! Has the pandemic been able to help people breakaway from the madness of that constant rat race to look good? Veteran fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore who originally hails from Jodhpur and has dressed the crème-de-crème of the fashion world says, “People still want to look good, however, now it is more about comfort.  Comfort clothes have always been there in the people’s wardrobe but now they are appearing at different points in time. For example, someone on zoom may wear loose pyjamas with a shirt on top.”

     Pallavi, a Jaipur based designer  who has styled many celebrities and is the owner of “Pallavi Jaipur” label believes that comfort with style is the new mantra. She says, “People are looking for comfort along with style. So, there has been shift in silhouette patterns. It may not be as fancy or as sharp as earlier. In the new normal, really well fitted clothes are passe and this trend of very fitted and structured clothes or making a strong statement have taken a backseat for now.”

    Swati Vijaivargie, another well-known designer from the city of Jaipur and  a regular at the Lakme Fashion week says, ‘these days more and more women are choosing to wear kaftan style dresses and tops because they want to wear something they feel comfortable in. They are no longer bothered about following a particular fashion trend. Instead, they believe in pampering themselves and do what makes them happy.”

    Ashima Parnami, an entrepreneur and a socialist, who is also an avid shopper and a fashion influencer believes that kaftans, co-ord sets and other such comfort wears are here to stay. “ I like wearing those co-ords and kaftans with minimum work but interesting accessories when stepping out. Even while going out regardless of lockdown or no lockdown, these cords work perfectly. I can team them up with a bold ring and some interesting stilettos. Many designers have come up with comfort wear with flowy dresses with minimum work. Cotton linen pants are also doing very well.”

    Her thoughts are seconded by Neeta Mohapatra, a Bengaluru based advertising brand consultant by profession and a stylist cum fashion influencer by passion. “Yes, comfort is the top priority today. You cannot sit working from home in an extremely fitting dress, especially when there is no one to admire you for your efforts! Now-a-days, people prefer wearing long flowing dresses or kaftans which were once considered maternity wear. The thing about kaftans is that you can style them with right accessories for a party or a get together too!

     Rajesh Pratap Singh is a name synonymous with fashion. He is a  NIFT alumni who is originally from Jaipur. According to him, all these changes are nothing but a short lived fad! “Though people are into leisurewear, I feel it is just a temporary fad like people getting into naturopathy. Today, the focus is only what is being worn on the top. Yet, we need to wait and watch to see if this trend survives for the next six months. The jury is still out. I won’t read too much into this. These trends will depend on how long the pandemic lasts. If it lasts for long, you are bound to see a drastic shift. If it doesn’t last, people may go back to their old ways.”

    Night Suit Is Back in Town!

    So, does that mean people will be stepping out what we used to call nighties and night wears now?

    Sunil Sethi feels the loungewear or what used to be called nightwear has been getting a lot of attention these days. “People are experimenting with different things that they could wear during the day or the evening or night. When you are working from home, you are generally in a lounging kind of zone. So, people have gotten used to wearing co-ords; a trend which may not go out even the markets open up completely.”

    Neeta Mohapatra seconds the thought, “Lounge wears like night suits or drawstring pants with short tops are also back in a big way. This was a trend which was dominant in the 70s era where people would pair them with nice footwear and accessories. Actually, we never had this term loungewear earlier. Now every major brand has a section called loungewear where they have kaftans and these so-called co-ords or night suits.”

    Rohit Kamra is another well-known name from Rajasthan whose creations have been appreciated far and wide. He has been at the helm of a new phenomenon, “there are a lot of American brands which are selling these co-ords online. Guess where are they sourcing these outfits from? Jaipur of course! The printed night suits on these websites are being produced in Jaipur for these brands! The good old night suit has really returned with a vengeance in this pandemic.”

    Raghavendra Rathore believes that these trends will only remain in vogue as long as the prevails.  since the media is trying hard to create a sense of normalcy amongst the masses. According to him, once the pandemic is over, the frequency of comfort clothes may increase but that is all there is to it.  “Going forward you won’t see people attending office in casual clothing. It will have to go back to what society believes is normal. However, the frequency of wearing those comfortable outfits maybe a little bit more. Life will return to normal because we are being bombarded by web series and movies which are trying to take us to what was there before the pandemic happened.”

    But why have people developed such a liking for the night suit?  Neeta Mohapatra blames it on the increased love handles and new found bellies. “For many who have been cooped up at home, these night suits and kaftans are a god sent. How else will they be able to hide their love handles?  And this is true for men too. I know of men who have rediscovered their love for lungis because they are so airy, comfortable and come in free sizes to accommodate their growing proportions!”

    Actually, this is not just the case only with Indians but Americans too. According to a new poll online, 36 percent of the Americans are having a hard time trying to search their closets for clothes that fit them! Sadly, lungi is not an option for them!

    Indeed, the pandemic has indeed changed a lot of things today. Whether it is about the ‘big fat Indian wedding’ or the online world, it has been a phase of some bold revelations and quiet revolutions for the Indian fashion industry!

    ..To be continued

    This article was published in Rashtradoot’s Arbit on 14 July 2021.